Ratatouille. A Provençal Classic.

Publicans and wedding caterers are under the mistaken impression that Ratatouille is a vague stew of boiled aubergines, courgettes and tomatoes, often tasting strangely of boiled cod. I would like to state categorically that you cannot boil an aubergine. Not unless you want it to have the taste and texture of a bath sponge. Which I for one don't. Usually Ratatouille on a menu is something to be avoided like the plague. A handy way to use up leftover tinned tomatoes. Vegetarian nightmare: Pub Ratatouille with microwave "Baked" potato.

The correct, Provençal version, however, is nothing less than a vehicle for serving savoury, garlicky olive oil, and is quite a treat.

You will need a frying pan AND a large, heavy bottomed saucepan. It is important to fry everything separately before amalgamating.

Ingredients:
Aubergines, chopped roughly. By the way, all that stuff about salting aubergines to remove their alleged bitterness is nonsense. If you have a problem, just buy fresher aubergines.
Courgettes - cut into large rounds.
Onions - big chunks.
Red peppers - strips.
Tomatoes, chunks. Or tinned will do, but don’t fry, obviously.

Fry in good olive oil, on a good high heat until you achieve that nice caramelly, chargrilled effect. As you fry each ingredient, add to the saucepan. Keep adding more oil, as necessary. Aubergines soak up a lot.

Add:
Lots of garlic
salt
lots of tarragon.
Maybe some basil.
A fair amount of tomato puree.

Cook gently, with the saucepan tightly covered, for a year and a day. This is one of those dishes which, like lob scouse, improves if left to settle overnight.

THIS IS NOT A SIDE DISH! Serve in bowls, topped with fresh parmesan, with crusty bread (for mopping up the oil)and a salad. And Red Wine. Obviously. Seriously, though, wine helps cut through the oil. And it’s good for you.

Historical Note: The earliest known record of Ratatouille was in 1925. Hard to believe, that, given that it seems so authentically rustic.

Next week’s theme is "Hot ‘n Spicy." I’m also wanting to start a Guest Contributor spot, so suggestions gratefully received. (I haven’t run out of recipes yet, b.t.w.)